Friday, November 08, 2013

Erebor Hat

Size: This hat is fits a 23.5 inch head (mine) snuggly, but it would be quite easy to scale up or down by changing needle size or adding or subtracting stitches from the reverse stockinet panels.

Materials: A heavier worsted weight; I used some no-band yarn I found kicking around, and then a ball of Patons Décor. Size 7 needs—dpns or circulars depending on your favorite method of working in the round. A cable needle

Gauge: 24 sts over 5 inches in Framed Cross Cable pattern, or 24 sts over 5.25 inches in stockinet.

Abbreviations:

K-Knit
P-Purl
k2tog- Knit two together
p2tog- Purl two together
FCC—Frame Cross Cable
CB4B—(Cable 4 Back) Slip the first two stitches onto a cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 2 stitches from left-hand needle, then knit stitches from cable needle.
CB4F—(Cable 4 Front) Slip the first two stitches onto a cable needle and hold at front of work, knit next 2 stitches from left-hand needle, then knit stitches from cable needle.
T3B—(Twist 3 Back) Slip next stitch onto a cable needles and hold at back of work, knit next 2 stitches from left-hand needle, then purl stitches from cable needle.
T3F—(Twist 3 Front) Slip next two stitches onto a cable needles and hold at front of work, purl next stitch from left-hand needle, then knit stitches from cable needle.

Framed Cross Cable From the Cable and arans Harmony Guide.

*Row 1: K2, p4, CB4B, p4, k2
Row 2 and all even rows—Knit the knits and purl the purls
Row 3: K2, p3, T3B, T3F, p3, k2
Row 5: K2, p2, T3B, p2, T3F, p2, k2
Row 7: K2, p1, T3B, p4, T3F, p1, k2
Row 9: K2, T3B, p6, T3F, k2
*Row 11: CB4F, p8, CB4B
Row 13: K2, T3F, p6, T3B, K2
Row 15: K2, p1, T3F, p4, T3B, p1, k2
Row 17: K2, p2, T3F, p2, T3B, p2, k2
Row 19: K2, p3, T3F, T3B, p3, k2.\
Row 20: Knit the knits and purl the purls

Instructions: Cast on 96 stitches.

Work 6 rows of rib as follows: *K4, P2, K2, P4, K4, P4, K2, P2* four times across the hat.

Now it’s time to begin working the cable rows!

Row 1: *CB4B, p2, work Framed Cross Cable, p2* four times across the hat.

Row 2: K4, p2, FCC, p2, K4.

Row 3: K4, p2, FCC, p2, K4.

See what you’re doing? You have four 4 stitch cables alternating with the four framed cross cables, all separated by 2 purl stitches between the cables.

Work 2 full repeats of the FCC cable; in rows 1 and 11 CB4B on the four stitch cable (as marked by the *’s in the instructions). This way it will match the CB4 crossings of the main cable. Work Rows 1 and 2 one more time before starting the decreases.

Decreases:

The idea here is to preserve the cable by getting rid of all the purl stitches first, then decreasing the knit stitches in traditional manner.

Row 1: *Work the established pattern (knit the knits and purl the purls) for 8 stitches, p2tog, pattern for 8, p2tog, pattern for 2, p2tog* repeat three times across the row.

Row 2 and all even rows: Work in established pattern; knit the knits and purl the purls.

Row 3: Work the established pattern for 4 stitches, *p2tog, pattern for 2, p2tog, pattern for 6, P2tog, pattern for 7* four times; the last repeat will end with 3 pattern stitches instead of 7.

Row 5: Work the established pattern for 3 stitches, k2tog, *pattern for 2, p2tog, pattern for 4, p2tog, pattern for 2°, k2tog, pattern for 2, k2tog* three times. Work pattern for 2, p2tog, pattern for 4, p2tog, pattern for 2, k2tog (you will be using the last stitch of this round and the first stitch in next).

Row 7: Knit 5, *K2tog, k3, k2tog, k7* four times; the last repeat will end with k2 stitches instead of 7. You now have 48 stitches.

Row 9. Now all the purls are gone, and you will begin your knit decreases. K4, k2tog across the hat. You now have 40 stitches.

Row 11: K3, k2tog across the hat. You now have 32 stitches.

Row 13: K2, k2tog across the hat. You now have 24 stitches.

Row 15: K1, k2tog across the hat. You now have 16 stitches.

Row 17: K2tog across the hat. You now have 8 stitches left.

Cut the yarn and draw through the remaining 8 stitches. I like to do this quite loosely the first time, go through the stitches a second time, and then tighten it off. Weave in the ends, then set forth to slay the dragon!

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